The Bomb is a cool 2 pitch trad route on Wind Tower just right of this big block that provides a little cave-shelter for the gear you’ve humped up the trail. This crag has one of the easier approaches along with plenty of moderates. For those reasons it gets plenty of traffic. At the time we went up we were following a party, with two other climbing parties on routes to either side.
The start has a nice fat ledge, and the aforementioned cave to keep extra gear out of the sun. It also has a roof to negotiate on the first pitch. The start is a tad blank, so get a jesus nut in early. The roof protects well, and is not quite an overhung route – you lean back at an angle, but are never upside down.
The second pitch has some chimney action, with all the cool stemming moves you’ve perhaps seen on the youtubez, wondering when you’d be able to unload that move on a crag – well, here you go!
Listed at MountainProject at 5.4, I always add a grade or two to Eldo grading to get a better comparison to other routes, especially for leading trad. Since most of the routes were set when the YDS only went up to 5.10, you have to make a careful calculation if you are onsighting an Eldo route. But, after following, it is definitely on my todo trad lead list. Mosdef!
I really recommend this for the aspiring trad leader – enough of a visual challenge with the roof and chimney – it is fairly easy, but varied climbing. And with straightforward gear placements, you won’t get stopped or runout.
Give it a go!
GoPro footage of Wind Tower’s Wind Ridge (5.8)
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