When local climbers talk about Devil’s Head, the three most often heard crags are Wipeyur Buttress, The Training Grounds and The Jungle. Some mentions of Radiohead and Chickenhead Ranch. There’s much more to DH than that, but those are the most common.
DH has been discovered, but if you don’t know where to stop on the road (“…Mile Marker 10” – wtf?) to take the trail to Wipeyur then you’ll be out of luck. The location listed on Mountain Project is the crag, not the point where you depart from the road to take the trail. So, unless you consider yourself handy with a map and compass, it’s likely that you would not get there unless led there by someone else. Word of mouth, and some approach beta should be appreciated.
I recently took a beginner climber friend to the crag and we tried out a few of the routes:
I really can’t recommend Silent but Deadly. Too run out on ankle-breaker ledges. Some might think the run outs make it spicy, but I just think the ankle-spraining, and cheese-grating possibilities on the crux moves were a bit much.
Tailwinds, though, I found right in my sweet spot: good holds, nice movement.
Same with Mr. Hanky. Yet, the grab for the jutting block that defines Mr. Hanky is a tad nerve-wracking if you take into account the number of folks grabbing this rock horn over time. I held lightly and clicked the draw above quickly to pass.
Devil’s Head is one of my favorite crags to go to. It’s relatively close (1.5 hours), has tons of climbing (over 400 routes), and is still being developed, so if there are areas that get over-run then you can always go to some of the newer areas.
You could even visit some of the fresh routes that are not findable anywhere (not MountainProject, not even Rakkup) and just – GO! Forget ratings, but bring a bail quicklink (or 2!), pick a likely, and waste that sucker!